KAYAKING FUNDAMENTALS

Beginner to Advanced Pack Lists, Safety Guides and Paddling Techniques

Be safe! Be prepared! Be aware! Have fun! 

Below is a set of resources to learn as a beginner and refer to as you progress. Paddling techniques, safety and rescue skills should be something you practice and refine every time you are out on the water. 

BOAT & PADDLE TERMS

Bow: the front end

Stern: the back end

Cockpit: where you sit

Bulkhead: wall separating the internal spaces of the boat

Hatch: access portal in front or back of the cockpit

Coaming: rounded lip surrounding the upper portion (entrance) of the cockpit

Lifting toggle: handles with cord attached to bow & stern for lifting the boat

Tie downs: bungee cords attached laterally, semi-permanently to the deck in front & back of the cockpit

Rudder: vertical steering blade attached to the stern on some kayaks

Length: distance from farthest point in the back to the farthest point in the front

Beam: maximum width of the boat

Height: maximum distance from top to bottom of boat

Non-feathered: The blades are not at an angle to each other

Feathered: The blades are at a 70 to 90 degree angle to each other

ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT

Paddle

PFD Jacket (Personal Flotation Device) (REQUIRED)

Sprayskirt

Food rations and water

Sunscreen

Spare paddle

Paddle float

Pump

Knife

First Aid kit 

Electrolyte powder/drink

Throw bag with 30 feet of towline

Matches in waterproof container

Emergency blanket

Sandals or boots

Quick drying polyester or nylon base layer garments 

Sun protection layer

Paddling jacket

Headgear: baklava, sun hat, rain hat, helmet for surf conditions

Gloves

Whistle

Air horn and/or Flares

Mirror

VHF radio

Cellphone (fully charged)

LED Strobe Light

Map/Chart printouts in clear waterproof bag

Compass

Bow & stern lights for night paddling (REQUIRED)

FORWARD PADDLE STROKE FUNDAMENTALS

(Adapted from Sea Kayaking Association of B.C. Kayak Techniques and Knowledge Guidelines)

Use a range of grip widths for more or less power, depending on circumstances.  

For more power to accelerate or to paddle against wind and/or current, use a wider grip.  For cruising and speed in calm conditions, use a less wide grip.  The widest grip is determined by where your hands are when holding your paddle horizontally over your head with both hands, forming right angles (90 degrees) at the elbows.  The minimum grip width is determined by holding the paddle horizontally at chest level with upper arms vertical against your torso.  You may mark these positions on your paddle with tape at the outside edge of your hand on the widest grip and at the inside edge of your hand for the minimum width.

To achieve the proper blade angle in the water it is necessary to have a control hand that keeps a fixed grip on a feathered paddle.  Either hand will work.  If you feel more comfortable with a non-feathered paddle after trying a feathered paddle, you can use it with both hands acting as the control for blade angle in the water.  The top knuckles of your control hand should be in line with the top edge of the adjacent blade.  The blade angle is determined by using wrists and/or forearms to adjust it to desired position. The control hand(s) have to maintain the grip.  It should be light and but controlling, primarily accomplished with thumb and forefinger.  A tight grip is unnecessary and fatiguing.

Sit upright or with a slight lean forward, with knees in contact with the deck, lower back firmly against its support, and feet in contact with the foot braces.

Select your control hand for feathered paddle* to use wrist and forearm to rotate the paddle to the proper angle in the water.  Holding the paddle horizontally in front of you, practice rotating it with your wrist and forearm to achieve vertical water entry with both blades.  Note that paddles can be feathered in opposite directions for left or right hand control.

Start with the paddle shaft held horizontally away from your body at chest level, beginning the stroke on the right side by extending your right arm straight out and your left hand coming back to your left shoulder.  Put the blade smoothly, almost gently, into the water near the boat, well forward without leaning into it.  Put the whole blade, but not the shaft, into the water for the entire stroke.  Pull back with your right arm, not the wrist, to pull the boat toward the paddle (not forcefully pulling the paddle through the water towards your body).  As you pull with the right, push with the palm of your left arm forward and across the boat.  The left hand should stay below eye level.  Keep the blade vertical in the water with the most force applied after putting the blade in the water and before passing your hips.  Once at your hips, begin to lift the blade crisply, straight up and out of the water.  Keep raising your right hand until it is at your right shoulder, bringing your left arm into a straightened forward posture with the left blade poised over the water, set to repeat the stroke on the left side of the boat.

*Feathered paddle.  To rotate the blade for vertical entry of a stroke on the non-control side after a stroke on the control hand side, raise the control forearm and bend the wrist backwards as the control hand is lifting away from the water at the end of the stroke.  To rotate the blade for vertical entry on the control side after a stroke on the non-control side, bend the control wrist forward after the blade on the non-control side is lifted out of the water and the non-control hand is moving to the shoulder, and while the control forearm is moving down and forward in preparation for the next stroke.

Practice the basic stroke slowly at first, concentrating on getting the fundamentals right with a fluid, balanced motion.  Remember that you start and stop the push and pull motions at the same times.

Using your torso twist to engage the major muscles of your upper and middle body will add significant power to your forward stroke.  Begin the stroke by twisting your body above the hips to turn your shoulder of the extended arm in the direction of that arm.  In other words, if the stroke is on the right side your torso will be twisted to the left, with your chest pointing at a 45 degree angle from your boat’s centerline, before commencing the pull/push motions.  This extends your stroke by placing the blade further forward.  As you begin your push/pull, start a coordinated release of the twist, uncoiling your body in the direction of the stroke side.  Continue to twist your upper body through 90 degrees during the pull/push motion, ending up coiled towards the opposite side of the boat as when the stroke began, i.e. on the same side as the stroke was made.  

Now your upper body is staged to release the power of your shoulder, back and abdomen into the next stroke by twisting back in the direction of the next stroke at the same time you commence the pull/push.  Repeating this 90 degree torso twist as a smooth part of each stroke, carefully coordinated with the arm motions, delivers maximum forward force transmitted from your body to the kayak at the points where your body contacts the boat.  This force is transmitted primarily through your hip/butt, knee and foot on the same side as the stroke.  To facilitate this you should fit snugly and can press the foot brace on the same side as the stroke with your foot.  

You may notice that the torso twist is doing part of the pull/push part, relieving your arms of part of that effort.  Casual paddling does not require the full torso twist, but its extra power will be available when called on from the accomplished forward stroke.

DO’S & DON’T’S

Sit upright with your head steady and eyes on the horizon.

Bring your shoulder forward to increase your reach.

Center your grip on the shaft and keep it loose.

Hold the shaft away from your chest with elbows slightly bent.

Use the palm of the upper hand to push, guided by slightly opened fingers.

Keep the power blade fully immersed and perpendicular to the water.

Keep a constant alignment of the controlling hand to the nearest blade.

Place the blade as far ahead as possible at the beginning of the stroke without bending forward at the waist.

Put the blade in close to the boat and cleanly so there is no splash.

Maintain as shallow a shaft angle as practical.

Pull and push with a steady, even pressure that favors the pulling side.

Get the majority of your power from the torso, then the pulling arm, and last of all from the pushing arm.

Twist your torso and rotate your shoulders to pull one arm back while driving the other arm forward.

Push against the foot brace on the pulling side.

Apply maximum power in mid-stroke, usually as knees are passing the blade.

Slice the blade up and out cleanly when your hip passes it.

Avoid unnecessary force.

Slouch or lean back in the seat.

Keep too tight a grip on the shaft.

Paddle using only your arms.

Hold arms close to the chest.

Allow the pushing hand to go above eye level or across the centerline of the boat.

Juggle your grip to change the blade’s angle to the water.

Keep the upper blade high in the air to catch wind and drip water on you.

Apply power before the blade is fully immersed.

Continue the stroke far beyond your hips.

Lean back and forth or rock side to side as you paddle.

Take the blade out too early, losing power—or too late, creating drag.

Putting together each of the fundamentals of the forward stroke with thoughtful, slow-motion practice and dedicated adherence whenever paddling will result in an effective, effortless, and seemingly natural means of pulling your kayak through the water.  

The forward stroke is detailed here because it is the stroke you will use the most.  The basic stroke is described, but as with all kayaking techniques, you may find variations.

TYPICAL HAZARDS

Tidal rapids and strong currents

Heavy seas

Rain

Wind

Fog

Darkness

Hitting boulders/rocks close to shore

Hitting man-made docks, buoys or underwater wreckage

Getting stuck in the mud in shallow areas or during low tide

Shipping, ferry traffic

Motorboat, sailboat traffic

Jet skiers

Fishermen with lines cast

Overheating, heat exhaustion/stroke, sun burn

Getting cold/Hypothermia

Running out of water

Hunger/Blood sugar drop

Injury on shore, getting in and out of the boat

COLD WATER PADDLING

Paddling on cold water (60° F or less) carries great risk. In case of an accident, there may be no quick rescue unless you or your paddling partners are able to do it. If you are not dressed for immersion, even near-by boaters may not be able to save your life. On cold water, our clothing (PFD and wetsuit/dry suit) must enable us to remain at the surface and fully functional. We must be prepared (trained and equipped) to carry out our own rescues.

(Adapted from Charles Sutherland)

Water removes heat from the body 25 times faster than cold air. About 50% of that heat loss occurs through the head and neck. Immersion in turbulent water or attempted swimming may double that rate of heat loss. 

Survival time can be reduced to minutes. Strong swimmers, without thermal protection, have died before swimming 100 yards in cold water. In water under 40° F, victims have died before swimming 100 feet. Immersion in cold water causes a series of traumatic responses that rapidly incapacitate and kill boaters who are not wearing protective clothing.

Immersion in cold water causes a powerful gasping reflex. If the victim is under water, due to lack of a PFD, water may be inhaled resulting in rapid drowning. Exposure of the head and chest to cold water causes sudden increases in heart rate and blood pressure, which may result in cardiac arrest. Uncontrolled rapid breathing (hyperventilation) follows the initial gasping response and may also lead to unconsciousness. The victim must attempt to recover a normal breathing rhythm as rapidly as possible.

Soon after entering cold water, hands, arms and legs become stiff and devoid of feeling. The victim rapidly looses the ability to swim, climb out of the water into an upright boat, or hold on to either a capsized boat or a life line thrown by a rescuer. Without a PFD, the victim drowns long before core hypothermia has developed.

Try to get back in or on your boat immediately. Do not leave the boat. If you are not wearing thermal protection and can not get out of the water, stay as still as possible. Fold arms, cross legs, and float quietly on the buoyancy of your PFD until help arrives (Heat Escape Lessening Posture; H.E.L.P). If 2 or more people are in the water, put your arms around one another. Stay still and close together (Huddle posture). 

Your ability to survive will depend on luck and how you prepared yourself before going out. Without a life jacket (PFD), you may drown and abruptly sink from sight. If you are dressed for the possibility of immersion, a rescue, with the help of your paddling partners, should not be difficult.

Now your survival depends on the timely arrival of outside help!

Two brothers (10 and 18-years-old) capsized their canoe in 50° F lake water (Adirondacks). They were being towed in high winds. The younger brother, wearing a PFD, was promptly rescued. Minutes later, the older brother, wearing blue jeans, a light shirt and no PFD, could not be found. His body was recovered by divers the next day. He was not able to hold on to the capsized canoe for even the few minutes it took to save his younger brother.

Wearing clothing that permits safe cold water immersion is the only way to combat the risk posed by cold water boating. Such gear can be found in windsurfing shops, and various canoe/kayak shops. Diving suits (1/4 inch neoprene) are too stiff to permit sustained paddling.

The common advice to wear layers of clothing (wool, nylon, polypropylene) is misleading. These fabrics are warm when damp in air because of air trapped in the fibers after they have been wrung out. They do not, by themselves, significantly retard heat loss in cold water. They provide effective insulation when worn inside a drysuit.

Clothing routinely used by coastal kayakers includes neoprene boots, gloves, and hat/hood (with a chin strap). A neoprene farmer-john or “fuzzy rubber” wetsuit (2.5-3 mm) worn with a drytop pullover jacket is an effective combination. Drysuits are more flexible, more expensive, and are essential on the coldest days of winter. This apparel must be topped off by your PFD. Attach a boat horn to your PFD.

Carry dry clothing in a waterproof bag. Take food and a stove with you. Make sure you have all standard kayaking equipment on board including a pump, spare paddle, tow line, weather radio, flares and etc. Your objective should be complete self-sufficiency. All group members must be able to do assisted rescues. Paddlers not dressed to swim are a danger to themselves and those with whom they paddle.

NOTE: Test your wetsuit/drysuit outfits in cold water. We do this at a site where we can walk in and walk out in the presence of friends. We also practice rescues and rolling in cold water to assure that we will be fully functional in the cold water environment.

Tell someone where you are going and when you will return. Inform them of your return. Finally, watch the boats around you. Out on cold water, you are depending on one another for prompt rescue in case of an accident.

HYPOTHERMIA

Hypothermia (reduced core body temperature) develops more slowly than the immediate effects of cold shock. Survival curves show that an adult dressed in average clothing may remain conscious for an hour at 40° F and perhaps 2-3 hours at 50° F. The crisis is more serious than these numbers suggest. Any movement in the water greatly accelerates heat loss and shortens survival time. Without thermal protection, as noted, the victim is soon helpless. Without a PFD, drowning is unavoidable. Shivering occurs as body temperature drops from 97° F down to 90° F. Muscle rigidity and loss of mental capacity occurs at about 93° F. Unconsciousness occurs when the body’s core temperature reaches about 86° F. Death occurs at about 80° F.

Wear a wetsuit or drysuit

Eat well & frequently

Drink plenty of water

Get plenty of rest

Keep working hard

Shivering

Hyperventilating

Incoherent

Poor reasoning

Loss of dexterity

Mild hypothermia (victim shivering but coherent). Move victim to place of warmth, remove wet clothes, and give warm, sweet drinks; no alcohol or caffeine. Keep victim warm for several hours.

Moderate hypothermia (shivering may decrease or stop). Victim may seem irrational with deteriorating coordination. Victim should be kept lying down with torso, thighs, head and neck covered with dry clothes, coats or blankets to stop further heat loss. Obtain professional medical attention immediately.

Severe hypothermia (shivering may have stopped. Victim may resist help or be semiconscious or unconscious). Removed from water, victim must be kept horizontal, face up, and immobile. Victim must be handled gently. Cover torso, thighs, head and neck with dry covers to stop further heat loss. Arms and legs must not be stimulated in any manner. Cold blood in extremities that suddenly returns to the core may induce cardiac arrest. Seek medical attention immediately.

Victim appears dead. Little or no breathing or pulse, body rigid. Assume victim can be revived. Look for faint pulse or breathing for 2 minutes. If any trace is found, do not give CPR. Medical help is imperative. If pulse and breathing are totally absent, CPR should be started by trained medical personnel.

Tell someone where you are going and when you will return. Inform them of your return. Finally, watch the boats around you. Out on cold water, you are depending on one another for prompt rescue in case of an accident.

CONTINUED READING

If you know of web resources that would be helpful for beginner-to-advanced kayakers, please send it to us so we can add it to this page! 

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